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How to Build an Airsoft DMR!

Published 2024-04-03 by Tyler J.

Here's how to properly build a long range airsoft rifle!

It’s simple: Shoot farther than your opponent can reach. You win, they lose. As obvious as this principle is, it can often feel like your opponents have the advantage in this department. Before you point fingers at them for upping their FPS after chrono, keep in mind that FPS does NOT directly correlate to range. There’s a hidden secret to long range lying deep within your airsoft gun’s internals, and it isn’t the spring! At an outdoor airsoft field, range is the game. Being able to land considerably farther shots than your opponents will give you a massive advantage so long as you can position yourself properly. Beyond just landing farther shots, taking a long barreled behemoth of a gun with a scope and larger caliber magazine into battle sounds absolutely awesome! The thought of being a badass marksman is an enticing one, leading many players to seek out any longer than average rifle with a scope to fulfill that itch with. You might pick up something like an A&K MK12, throw on an ACOG scope, and take to the field just to sorrowfully find out that a kid with a 7 inch barrel M4 shoots just as far as you. Don’t fall for this rookie mistake! In this guide, we’ll explore how to set up the ideal airsoft DMR platform. For this build guide, we’re going to assume three things: A DMR should shoot at a higher velocity than the standard field velocity, A DMR should feature a long marksman style barrel, and of course, a DMR should have a magnified optic. With these ideals in mind, I’ll weave together some of my top build recommendations to help aid you in your quest to dominate the game at range.

Step 1: Choosing A Base Platform



Let’s kick this guide off with the fun part: Choosing a DMR Base! The real steel world has a wide assortment of military relevant options to center your build around, and whichever one you pick as your airsoft replica will come with its own set of challenges to overcome. I’ll start off this list with some of the easiest platforms to center a build around, then slowly make my way down the ones that might make for a more dedicated project.



Coming in as my first and most economical pick, we have the Double Bell MK12 SPR! Considering cost and user-friendliness, there probably isn’t a better pick for a DMR base if you’re just testing the waters with a decent long range platform. Its sub $180 price tag is quite deceptive considering this rifle’s list of features. The full metal construction lends well to immersing yourself with the feel of a weighty precision rifle and the MK12 design itself may please more milsim oriented events if you find yourself on the multicam associated team. The design comes straight from the corresponding real steel MK12 MOD 0 previously in use by the U.S. Special Forces, replicating its details with a higher degree of authenticity than some other models on the market. As for the internals, the Double Bell MK12 utilizes the new Double Bell gearbox, which comes fresh out of the factory with an assortment of CNC Aluminum upgraded parts to ensure solid air compression and durability. One of the most important things to make sure your rifle has when upgrading the spring past an M120 is a steel tooth piston, which this rifle comes fresh out of the box with. Additionally, by simply unscrewing the flathead at the rear of the stock, you can gain access to the MK12’s true quick-change spring system, allowing you to up your FPS to a more marksman-like velocity with ease. The gearbox is full Tokyo Marui M4 spec, giving you free reign to the plethora of M4 parts on the market to upgrade the internals with. Full metal weight aside, user convenience for modifying this rifle is about as easy as it gets in the airsoft world. I couldn’t recommend it more for anyone looking to try their hand at upgrading an AEG!



The MK12 may at least historically fit the bill as a DMR platform, but its relatively diminutive 5.56 style magazine might not scratch the itch for using rounds of a larger caliber. Veterans of the hobby, you might recognize this rifle immediately. The A&K SR25 has picked up a legendary reputation over the years as the go-to choice for an airsoft DMR base. Its standardized internal specifications and extraordinarily durable metal externals have popularized it as the “duty DMR” of choice for airsoft rifle builders around the world. As a result, the system is admittedly a tad bit old. It won’t come out of the box nearly as modernized as some other options on the airsoft market, but it still stays true to the virtues that served as its original claim to fame. One of the biggest appeals of the SR25s internals is its above average cylinder size, which gives the system a higher volume of compressed air to propel a BB with. This can matter when using longer inner barrels or taking advantage of the “air cushion” effect to maximize your rifle’s range (We’ll get into this effect later in the article). While it certainly isn’t anything new or shiny, it’s time-tested appeal still makes it a solid option if you’re looking for a .308 caliber style AR to rack up eliminations at range with.



As we depart from M4 style replicas, things are going to start getting a bit tricky. Much like a real AR, airsoft’s M4 platforms are the hobby’s cornerstone of modularity and aftermarket support. Their versatility makes them easy to recommend. However, not every mans’ hands call for the classic American scalpel.

The Dragunov SVD is a Russian sniper rifle with a standout silhouette that has popularized it in movies and video games alike. Often designated as the “bad guy” sniper, this rifle system is a must have for those who want to stand against an M4 wielding adversary. As an airsoft gun, the SVD is an oddity. It uses a unique 4 gear gearbox design that offers some limitations for upgrade potential, though that won’t stop a seasoned tech from bringing this thing to its fullest potential. Much like the SR25, the SVD has an expanded compression set that helps aid in performance with longer barrels and heavier BBs. If you’re willing to take on the unique challenge the internals present, it has the potential to become one of the scariest rifles present at your field. The SVD is best reserved for those truly dedicated to the Russian marksman aesthetic. Try your hand at it if you dare!



Last but not least, we’ll take a look at the CYMA M14. As one of the cheaper options on this list, it’s not a bad rifle option if you’re simply looking for an above average marksman package on a budget. If you simply want a high quality DMR rifle for the aesthetic and aren’t too worried about maximizing performance, this one offers a whole lot of quality for its sub $200 price point. Its fascinating Version 7 style gearbox is an impressively reliable design that can last many years of play, and M14s come default with a high quality adjustable hop up system that clicks into place. As with everything on this list, its true potential lies hidden behind aftermarket upgrades. Working on an airsoft M14 is a bit of an ordeal. I’d really only recommend the most cautious of techs to work on one of these lest they leave their gun worse off than before they opened it. The gearset is slightly different than that of other airsoft models, and the external trigger switch apparatus is easy to improperly assemble. Nonetheless, these rifles are absolutely killer when tricked out with a stronger spring, motors, and a beefy MOSFET. If you plan to keep your budget DMR stock, this would be my first pick for you. If you plan to get crazy with upgrades, you’re in for quite the project!


Step 2: Choosing a Scope



Traditionally, the Dragunov SVD is outfitted with a PSO-1 fixed 4x zoom scope that boasts effectiveness up to 600 meters. Impressive as that is, the effective range of your airsoft SVD will only be a tenth that distance. Is there really a need for scopes in airsoft then?

Absolutely!

Why, you might ask?

They look friggin cool, that’s why! If you were to ask me on a practical level which scope you should get for your airsoft rifle, I’d point you in the direction of non-magnified red dots. Airsoft scopes are still usable, but standard red dots are just much more of an effective tool for the type of play airsoft encourages. But who cares! We’re doing DMR builds here and drip is half the goal! While “airsoft” quality scopes will generally pale in comparison to the quality of some real-steel scopes, I have a particular assortment of favorites that I find to be awesome regardless. Let’s scope out some of my top picks!


One of the first things I look for in an airsoft scope is something that I don’t have to jam my eyeball directly into to look through. The second thing I look for is how obnoxious the magnification level is, since I’m not looking to use an optic with a minimum magnification level of 6x for 80ft skirmishes. The Matrix X4 is that exact functional medium, providing a perfect 1-4x adjustable zoom with an impressive 4.4” inch eye relief for a sub $80 optic. Maybe it’s just me, but scopes pushed way too far to the rear of the rifle’s receiver offset some of the aesthetic balance. The smaller LPVO style of this scope might not be for everyone, but its pure viability as an airsoft optic should put it on your radar as a top pick. Highly recommend this one if you plan on your scope being a centerpiece part of your airsoft experience!



For some, the “inverted” look of the LPVO optic might not suit the tastes of those inspired by the more classically proportioned rifle scope. If you’re looking for something with similar performance that offers a more traditional design, look no further than the AIM Sports 2-7x32 Long Eye Relief Scope! This one has quickly become a personal favorite of mine for sniper builds due to its ease of use and low magnification. If your DMR is running a full stock, a scope with long eye relief like this can be wonderful for achieving a comfortable sight picture. Give it a try!



A fair complaint to be made about my previous two suggestions is that they are rather small. They’re perfect for airsoft purposes, but aren’t ideal if you’re trying to achieve the aesthetic of having a big-honking scope that makes a statement about how far back you prefer to engage targets. Need a big scope? The Firefield 4-16x can be that big scope for you! Yes, you read that right. This absolute telescope of an airsoft optic offers 16x zoom at a sub $100 price point. It’s entirely out of practicality for taking out targets at that magnification, but might be a nice recon tool if your airsoft field is large enough. Perhaps the big-zoom playstyle is more up your alley than it is up mine. Dead set on big scope? Get the big scope!

Step 3: Internal Upgrades



Once you’ve acquired the DMR base of your dreams, the next step is to enchant it with the power to fling BBs over 250ft. As we discussed in the rifle section, this step can be more easier said than done sometimes. Upgrading an AEG is something that should be done with utmost caution, as misplacing even the smallest washer can cataclysmically obliterate your rifle’s ability to cycle. If you’re uncomfortable with upgrading your rifle on your own, I highly recommend looking into our Evike Perfomance Shop (EPS) upgrade services. Our team of highly experienced techs can work with you one-on-one to build the rifle of your dreams! Shoot them an email at [email protected].

Curious about trying your hand at upgrading your DMR yourself? Here’s the parts that I generally recommend for any high velocity AEG build!:

Gearbox Components





One of the best parts of having a DMR build is simply knowing that your gun shoots hard. In order to push an AEG over it’s stock velocity, you’re going to need a spring upgrade. There is no perfect spring for every build as there are multiple contributing variables to AEG muzzle velocity. My general advice is to simply match your spring to your inner barrel length. Using an inner barrel longer than 400mm? The spring’s strength rating is likely going to be on the higher end of what it suggests. Again I stress that the variables here are numerous. If you’re particularly worried about it, pick up two adjacent springs to test!

Keep in mind that raising the spring tension substantially increases wear on every other part of your gearbox. It is the largest and most important stress point, and your gearbox should be completely built around it. For M130 springs and above, you should be using steel tooth pistons. For M150 and above, an aluminum cylinder head starts to become mandatory. If your gearbox shell isn’t radiused (Does it have circular cutouts on the end of where the cylinder is held?), I’d highly recommend getting that done for best gearbox longevity.

In order to handle these heavier springs, you’re going to need the following gearbox parts. I’ll be brief with each of my suggestions here, as going down the rabbit hole of proper gearbox assembly is worth an entire article in of itself:



A steel tooth piston is CRITICAL for any airsoft build that uses a high power spring. Polymer pistons will shred incredibly quickly when put under stresses they aren’t designed for. The Slong pistons in particular have been my piston of choice recently, but Retro Arms and Angel Custom offer some competitive options as well.



If you’re building a SR25 or SVD, you will need to use a 19 tooth piston instead due to their higher cylinder volume!



If your rifle doesn’t come pre-equipped with an aluminum piston head, you might want to invest in one. Higher stress builds are more likely to shatter plastic piston heads. I recommend this one from Rocket!



Along with an aluminum piston head, you’re going to need a aluminum cylinder head. Check this one out if you’re using a Version 2 style gearbox!



These gears are made of a material far more durable than that of your cast-steel stock gears. I recommend them highly if you’re concerned about longevity. Don’t worry about “high torque” gears too much. 18:1 is a reasonable ratio for any standard airsoft DMR build.



A heavier spring is going to require a stronger motor to pull it with any haste. To both improve your trigger response and provide ample power to your gearbox, I highly recommend the incredibly torquey Rocket 2022 airsoft motors.

Hopup Components




Thankfully, your range and accuracy components are nowhere near as complicated as your gearbox components. Once a BB leaves your magazine and enters your AEG’s “chamber,” it makes contact with two parts: Your bucking and barrel. The bucking is essentially the air-sealing “chamber” the BB rests in before a shot is fired, and the inner barrel (not to be confused with the outer barrel!) is the polished tube the BB is then shot through. These two parts in conjunction have the heaviest impact on your rifle’s consistency at range, and are by far the most important parts to change if you plan on creating a true precision rifle. Many sources will claim an “R-Hop” or a “Flat-hop” are the ultimate choice for maximizing performance. Personally, I’ve seen just as much success with this bucking let alone:



The Maple Leaf SUPER buckings are absolutely astounding when paired with 0.32g+ BBs. They use a contact patch that hugs the BB in a similar way to an R-hop, but has a much more simple installation process in comparison. I dive deeper into what makes these buckings functionally superior in my “The Secret To Accuracy: Best Hop-up Buckings” article (click here!), but the TL:DR is that they apply backspin to the BB much more evenly than a standard bucking design. A harder degree of rubber is recommended for higher FPS builds as well. If the rubber is too soft, it’ll bend to the force of the BB being shot to it more than it’s intended to, throwing off accuracy. If the rubber is too hard, the BB may not be able to clear the bucking altogether and cause jams. For most 450-550 FPS airsoft builds, the 75 degree Maple Leaf super is your best bet.



The best inner barrel for airsoft is a hotly debated topic. One thing that is for certain though is that a “tightbore” inner barrel is not necessarily a more accurate inner barrel. The deciding factor of that is the quality of the polish within the barrel. As my colleagues and I have come to discover, the Lambda 6.05mm inner barrel has offered some of the best performance at the most economical price point – at least so long as you have a high compression gearbox setup. If your air seal is working well and you’re using a cylinder without ports, we believe that the larger diameter of this inner barrel assists in creating an “air cushion” effect around the BB, which stabilizes it’s flow through the barrel. This air cushion makes the accuracy resistant to microparticles and vibrations within the inner barrel, aiding in its consistency. I highly recommend giving this barrel a shot!



This isn’t an internal part. These are just BBs. And yet, they are so damn important to improving your range and accuracy that I felt the need to include them here anyway. On any rifle pushing 400 FPS, pairing a high quality bucking with heavy BBs is the physical heart and soul behind improving range and accuracy. A heavier BB can have more hopup applied to it without flying off into the stratosphere from overhop, and thus can take greater advantage of the “Magnus Effect” to defy gravity a little longer. Each rifle setup will have a sweet spot for which weight BBs it likes best. I highly encourage you to test multiple different weights of heavy ammo to find what works best for your build!


Creating the perfect airsoft DMR is a fascinating project. It blends the art of rifle design with the mechanical science of sending a plastic ball flying as far as possible, all just to make it part of a silly war game costume to wear to a weekend social gathering. If you’re giving a DMR build your best shot and trying your hand at working on the gearbox, don’t give up if something doesn’t end up working. Even for experienced technicians, building AEGs can be a trial and error process. If something doesn’t work, take a step back, analyze the variables, and make a change!
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